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  1. #1

    Default New...kind of...

    I am new to playing...at brick and mortar casinos. I was a member of this site awhile back but forgot the username, and emai I had registered with. Previously I had been learning to play tight aggressive positional poker online. I was just becoming profitable playing 4 tables when disaster struck. I live in Washington State and online gambling was made illegal. I have been hesitant to try my hand at B&M casinos because I am not that confident in my ability to mask physical tells. Recently my wife talked me into trying my hand at a local casino. So far it has not gone well, but I am pretty sure I played well. Lost my stack to a bad beat last night. (played AJs from the button, flopped a set of jacks and got beat by Kings full of Jacks.) Part of me is saying thats just the way it goes, and wants to chalk it up to swings/variance/whatever else you wanna call it. But another part of me is questioning whether I need to rethink my play style for B&M play. Before that last hand I was up to almost double the $100 I bought in with, but I haven't played nearly enough hands to say whether that was a fluke or not. I am hoping some of you more experienced player can lend some advice before I go losing a bunch of money with a losing strategy.

    My question is, would the same style of play that was proving profitable online be profitable in a brick and mortar casino? If not; what would be good resources for learning to play live games for fun and profit? Or would I just need a couple tweaks to the online strategies?



    Nevermind, ignore thispost please. The third time I was reading through the newby FAQ, I found the "New to Brick and Mortar Casinos?" post.
  2. #2
    Good that you found the post, but just a few thoughts.

    If you play AJ and hit a flop with JJx you've hit trips, not a set. A set is considered you holding a pocket pair and hitting a third of that rank on the board. A set is somewhat stronger than trips - you beat the same hands (they're both three-of-a-kind), but the set is more disguised and more likely to get action.

    If the board has something like KJJ it is not unlikely that someone with a single K will go broke - he'll consider anyone else holding a J less likely (as two of them are already accounted for) and think his K gives him the best 'top pair'. It's probably not fair to suggest you could have gotten away from the hand - it was likely profitable to get all-in.

    If you buy in for $100 another question is - what stakes are you playing? If it's $1/$2 blinds then you are buying in with 50bb. Note that the size of your stack relative to blinds has a HUGE impact on which hands are worth playing and which hands are not worth playing. There are many excellent resources on the topic and lots on this forum (just get reading). If you prefer books I'd look at Professional No-Limit Holdem, No Limit Holdem Theory and Practice and/or Harrington on Cash (two volumes).

    Study your opponents and their tendencies. If you knew your opponent was very cautious and timid and only playing super premium hands aggressively - you MIGHT have needed to find a fold somewhere. If he was super loose and giving action the whole time you made by far the best play by getting all in. He'd have played the same with any old K7 hand then - as well as weaker jacks (QJ, JT etc) - and AA, maybe even QQ.

    Consider your poker bankroll. With online poker it's practically trivial to get into the mindset of a poker bankroll and your non-poker money and separating them. If playing live you'll need to do something similar, even if the dollar bills are now much more similarly looking. When you go to a live game and sit down you need rebuys. If you do not have rebuys you'll be playing scared and giving up edges and lots and lots of money just because you don't want to go broke. I'm no live player, but I'd guesstimate that you need to bring 3-5 rebuys to any live session. The rule of thumb is that you need 1 more rebuy than you use, so no session is played with your 'last money'.
  3. #3
    a500lbgorilla's Avatar
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    himself fucker.
    I will be completely honest, there are way too many words for me in your posts.
    <a href=http://i.imgur.com/kWiMIMW.png target=_blank>http://i.imgur.com/kWiMIMW.png</a>
  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Erpel
    Good that you found the post, but just a few thoughts.

    If you play AJ and hit a flop with JJx you've hit trips, not a set. A set is considered you holding a pocket pair and hitting a third of that rank on the board. A set is somewhat stronger than trips - you beat the same hands (they're both three-of-a-kind), but the set is more disguised and more likely to get action.

    If the board has something like KJJ it is not unlikely that someone with a single K will go broke - he'll consider anyone else holding a J less likely (as two of them are already accounted for) and think his K gives him the best 'top pair'. It's probably not fair to suggest you could have gotten away from the hand - it was likely profitable to get all-in.

    If you buy in for $100 another question is - what stakes are you playing? If it's $1/$2 blinds then you are buying in with 50bb. Note that the size of your stack relative to blinds has a HUGE impact on which hands are worth playing and which hands are not worth playing. There are many excellent resources on the topic and lots on this forum (just get reading). If you prefer books I'd look at Professional No-Limit Holdem, No Limit Holdem Theory and Practice and/or Harrington on Cash (two volumes).

    Study your opponents and their tendencies. If you knew your opponent was very cautious and timid and only playing super premium hands aggressively - you MIGHT have needed to find a fold somewhere. If he was super loose and giving action the whole time you made by far the best play by getting all in. He'd have played the same with any old K7 hand then - as well as weaker jacks (QJ, JT etc) - and AA, maybe even QQ.

    Consider your poker bankroll. With online poker it's practically trivial to get into the mindset of a poker bankroll and your non-poker money and separating them. If playing live you'll need to do something similar, even if the dollar bills are now much more similarly looking. When you go to a live game and sit down you need rebuys. If you do not have rebuys you'll be playing scared and giving up edges and lots and lots of money just because you don't want to go broke. I'm no live player, but I'd guesstimate that you need to bring 3-5 rebuys to any live session. The rule of thumb is that you need 1 more rebuy than you use, so no session is played with your 'last money'.
    Thats what I get for quitting playing entirely for over 2 years. Get terminology mixed up.

    I see your point about the bank roll though. Blinds were 1/3 with $40-$200 buy in) I only brought $100 because I was mainly killing time until a tournament started. I figured it would be a good way to dip my toes back in the water so to speak; since I had been out of play for so long. I also didn't want to risk too much initially in case it turned out that I was an easy read due to physical tells.

    I am figuring I would need to set aside like $3000 min to start off a "career" in live play. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

    All in all I think I played well though considering how out of practice I was and that all my previous experience had been online. I didn't get ITM in the tournament I played but I was close. I finished 14th out of about 120, and top 10 seats were paid.
  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by a500lbgorilla
    I will be completely honest, there are way too many words for me in your posts and not enough cowbell.
    Done!

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