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				 Re: Hand range check
				
					
						I'm not going to lie, I didn't read Erpel's second novel in this thread the 1st time through.  But I did go back and read it, and now have a few more things to address.
 
 
	As stated, it is okay to assume he will continue with sets/overpairs (obv); however, I don't think an overall nitty player is going to become absolute gung-ho on the turn with hands as marginal as 77-99 in this spot.  However, it does depend on if the villain is thinking about your range.  If he is, then he either c/c, or c/f turn.  If he isn't, then he might c/r because "lol overpair".
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by Erpel I think post flop  he will continue with sets and overpairs and generally steal  if a pot looks orphaned or people look very weak. 
 
 
	
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by Erpel AA-KK : Both somewhat likely to be 3bet pre. These could have been bet on flop , raised on flop  or bet out on turn , but are strong enough that a passive line  could be perceived as justified some of the time. Probably follow this line  pre-flop  around 50% and get to this turn  around 10-15% of the time.
 Obv KK/AA are likely to be squeezed preflop.  However, I'm a bit confused on why you keep saying things like "these could have been bet on the flop", as you do here, and on numerous other possible strong hands.  I mean sure it's possible that he donks the flop with 66/33/AA/KK/TT/etc.  However, I think that will happen much less often than he will check (much much less often).  And this is for a few reasons:
 
 (1) You have a strong range.  You raised UTG, and the majority of UTG ranges consist of pairs, therefore, here you likely have an overpair, and are likely to cbet.
 
 (2) Even bad players realize other players cbet.  Surely he is capable of checking 66/33, and KK/AA if he has those hands.
 
 (3) Checking squeezes the other villain in the middle of the pot, and is more likely to get more money in the pot.  If SB checks, you are likely to bet the bulk of your range (overpairs), whereby the Button can then make his decision on whether to continue, before SB has to act.  However, if SB donks flop, you call/raise, Button can make a much more informed decision as to your range, and SBs range.
 
 Note: this would be different if say a villain limp/called your open, and you were last to act on this flop.  Then a lead from SB is maybe a bit more common as it forces the other villain to make his decision before you have to act, but still isn't the standard.
 QQ
 -JJ : Unlikely to be 3bet pre. These I feel should have been bet for protection/value on either flop  or turn . Any ace or king coming would be bad news for them and they might well  be the best hand at this time. Probably call  to see a flop  80-90% and get to this point on the turn  about 10-15% of the time.
The same applies for these hands as did for the AA/KK/66/33 hands.  They are much more likely to c/call, c/raise the flop I believe.
TT -77: Pretty consistent. More towards the TT  end is probably more likely to bet for protection. Would definitely all call flop . Probably at least checking this turn  70% of the time - check /raising is not really the preferred play. I would consider check /call  to occur quite often due to the smallish bet size . Key concern for the whole situation is probably how often these hands decide to raise  in this particular situation when they have seen my bet size .
If you believe c/call to occur quite often, then why are you stacking off on the turn?  I agree that he is likely to c/call 77-TT, which if that's the case makes stacking off on the turn pretty bad. 
66: If opponent is playing set -it-or-forget-it as his master strategy that also involves stacking off when he hits his set . He may be slowplaying to let me throw as much money in on bluffs and semi-bluffs as I like before he takes it down. I still think he'd bet out on either flop  or turn  some of the time and think he gets to the turn check-raise  about 50% of the time.
Players LOVE to slowplay when they have the boards crippled.  66 has the board crippled.  He will be checking the flop like 100% of the time.  If I have 66 here, I think I like a check/raise against a good player because I'm repping like 66/33, which is a very small range, and your range is also strong so you are not likely to fold when I'm repping such a thin value range.  But I don't mind check/calls. 
 I bet he c/calls 66 here like always.
 
 
55-44: While I think there is a case  for opponent calling flop  with these hands, if behind  they only have 2 outs  and I think most set  miners would set  it or forget it - meaning fold flop  with these hands most of the time. If 44 calls turn  is consistent. With so many flop  folds I expect 44 to arrive on the turn  10% of the time or less.
Him calling the flop with 55/44 is bad I think.  However, that isn't to say he won't do it.  Albeit not too likely because he is a nit.  But if 44 does c/c flop, he is pretty likely to c/raise turn. 
33: Consistent. Could bet flop  or turn  or raise flop . Probably preferring this line  though at 70%
33, like 66, probably never, ever leads flop (for good reason). 
22: I think would fold flop .
 Yeah
 
	You shouldn't even consider not betting here.  Near every villain is going to call at least 1 streets here with an overpair.  You will be getting loads of value from those hands + you can get value from AK/AQ while also protecting your hand.  But definitely a valuebet.
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by Erpel I consider not betting because it's multiway reducing the chance I have the best hand, but I decide that even though I am multiway I am still good if called. 
 
 
	I disagree with the part about the dry flop suggesting a 1/3-1/2 betsizing is good.  We need to put villain on a range, and size our bets accordingly.  In this spot, we can assume the majority of villain's continuing range is overpairs+.  He is obviously calling whatever size with 66/33.  However, we can rightfully assume he is likely to call up to a potsized bet with any overpair for at least 1 street.  So we bet to reflect his likely continuing range.  So I wouldn't say that 1/3-1/2 is standard here.  I would opt for a larger bet because we get more value from the hands that we are ahead of as most call at least 1 street here.
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by Erpel The flop  is super-dry which suggests that a bet size  between 1/3 to 1/2 pot is perfectly reasonable. But since the flop  is multiway I increase the size of the bet.  
 If the board is A22, and we have 22, and we know that villain has AA 100% of the time.  Just because the flop is super dry doesn't mean we have to bet small.  His range is super strong, so we can size our bet accordingly.  (obv extreme example).
 
 
 
	
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by Erpel Turn bet sizing: At the table I felt  when I was just called on the flop  and checked to on the turn  that I was most likely up against TT -66, 33 with the occasional 44. Since TT -77 are 19 combos  and 66/33 are  4 I felt  pretty good about continuing in the hand. My basic idea with the bet size  was to find one that will be called by 77-99. What I should have done was pick a size that might be called by 77-99 and where if I was raised I could fold  confidently. I think I botched the turn bet size  and made it too small.  I said I was against the turn betsizing, and wanted it a bit bigger, but here's something interesting to think of.  You said it would be best to pick a raise size that would get calls from 77-TT, while also allowing you to fold if raised.  That is you believe the best bet size is one that will unbalance villain's turn range.  Which is true.  If you can bet a size here that will make 77-TT want to call, but 66/33/44 feel as if they need to raise, then you win.  A bet of that nature would not only allow us to fold correctly if raised on this turn, but also allow us to valuebet thinner on the river when called.
 
 Maybe your turn betsizing did just that.  I know he would have certainly felt he has to raise with 66/33 to build the pot, while he probably thinks with 77-TT that he s getting solid pot odds to call another street and evaluate the river.  Just a thought.  Manipulating ranges, and playing against unbalanced ranges is something ISF talks about a ton.
 
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